After a short rest in La Paz we head to our last destination in Bolivia: Copacabana and its famous Lago TitiKaKa.
Leaving with the first bus at 6:30am we have a 4 hour ride before joining Copacabana. The road was beautiful, running through the traditional countryside with the snowy Andes in the background. A panorama of pastel colours due to the fresh sun light through the different small and simple villages we pass by, where cholitas take care of their cows and sheeps, young children head to school, houses are built from mud, pigs are eating by the side of the road and people just live their daily lives.
After a few hours drive we have to take off the bus to cross a part of the lake by boat; while the bus does the same on another one. One must be careful to not stroll too long in the village after the crossing as the bus doesn't really wait for you...
Once we get closer to Copacabana the view gets better and better. We are immediately charmed by the beauty of the lake.
Leaving with the first bus at 6:30am we have a 4 hour ride before joining Copacabana. The road was beautiful, running through the traditional countryside with the snowy Andes in the background. A panorama of pastel colours due to the fresh sun light through the different small and simple villages we pass by, where cholitas take care of their cows and sheeps, young children head to school, houses are built from mud, pigs are eating by the side of the road and people just live their daily lives.
After a few hours drive we have to take off the bus to cross a part of the lake by boat; while the bus does the same on another one. One must be careful to not stroll too long in the village after the crossing as the bus doesn't really wait for you...
Once we get closer to Copacabana the view gets better and better. We are immediately charmed by the beauty of the lake.
We arrive in Copacabana around 11am, negotiate boat prices for the island and other tour information. Our boat leaves at 13.30 so we decide to hike to the Calvario view point where it is said to have an impressive view of the lake, the town and the Isla del sol. Yet with only 1 hour ahead of us, and a 3900m of altitude it is hard to go up (especially since we took a path by the coast instead of the regular trail). I didn't make it to the top but the view almost half way up the hill is already beautiful! |
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Isla del Sol - North
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From north to south
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13:30 it is time for our boat and head to the famous Isla del Sol. Why rush the journey? The boat goes at a pace of 20km/h taking almost three hours to reach the north of the island. The view being beautiful we don't mind it too much.
When we arrived at the harbour I was directly charmed by how beautiful it is. I had already been to Isla del sol but never to this part of the island which is to be seen. It is said to be much more traditional than the south (which is more touristic) and the trail by the coast leading to the north inca ruins is indeed beautiful giving us a stunning view over the lake and other island. We get back to the village at sunrise and head for a "trucha a la plancha" with quinoa, Finally!! :)
In order to see as much of the island within less than 24 hours, and also due to internal conflicts between north and south communities of the island (10 years of conflits in regards to the inca ruins, tourism and indépendance of certain communities) blocking the route from the south to the north by boat (and by foot) we decide to walk down from the north to the south and catch a boat back to Copacabana there at 10.30. Only 8km yet at 4000m and with a hilly path way we know it is going to take us some time. So we wake up at 5 to start waking at 5.30. A 3h30 walk through the island, tough sometimes, but beautiful with the sunrise although it started to rain and hail on us. We didn't get enough time to visit the south harbour but did enjoy our time on the island with our Israel friend whom we met on the bus!
I had already been there but have rediscover the island in a completely different manner and that's I love so much about travelling back to some special places!
Once back in Copacabana we enjoy our last cheap Bolivian lunch (20Bs for a menu!!) before crossing the border over to Peru!!
When we arrived at the harbour I was directly charmed by how beautiful it is. I had already been to Isla del sol but never to this part of the island which is to be seen. It is said to be much more traditional than the south (which is more touristic) and the trail by the coast leading to the north inca ruins is indeed beautiful giving us a stunning view over the lake and other island. We get back to the village at sunrise and head for a "trucha a la plancha" with quinoa, Finally!! :)
In order to see as much of the island within less than 24 hours, and also due to internal conflicts between north and south communities of the island (10 years of conflits in regards to the inca ruins, tourism and indépendance of certain communities) blocking the route from the south to the north by boat (and by foot) we decide to walk down from the north to the south and catch a boat back to Copacabana there at 10.30. Only 8km yet at 4000m and with a hilly path way we know it is going to take us some time. So we wake up at 5 to start waking at 5.30. A 3h30 walk through the island, tough sometimes, but beautiful with the sunrise although it started to rain and hail on us. We didn't get enough time to visit the south harbour but did enjoy our time on the island with our Israel friend whom we met on the bus!
I had already been there but have rediscover the island in a completely different manner and that's I love so much about travelling back to some special places!
Once back in Copacabana we enjoy our last cheap Bolivian lunch (20Bs for a menu!!) before crossing the border over to Peru!!
Transport: a good 4 hours ride from la Paz for 30bs. The first bus leaves at 6.30 and not 6.00 as written on their flyers. Then many buses leave all day long, al from the main bus terminal.
Accommodation: once arrived on the island many kids directly come to you to offer accommodation. We got a private room with shared bathroom and electricity for 20bs per person.
F&B: food is cheap on the island compared to Copacabna. We paid around 25/30 Bs for the trucha, and 5Bs for empanadas. All snacks and drinks you would buy in the kiosk is a bit more expensive than in the rest of the country.
Activities: the boat to the island costs 25 for the north and 20 for the south. On the way back they try to charge you more because they know you're blocked on the island. But you can easily negotiate 20bs from the south and 25 from the north instead of 25 and 30 respectively. On the island you will have to pay walking tolls on the path from the north to the south. About 3 tolls exist and they can ask between 10 to 20 Bs per person.
Accommodation: once arrived on the island many kids directly come to you to offer accommodation. We got a private room with shared bathroom and electricity for 20bs per person.
F&B: food is cheap on the island compared to Copacabna. We paid around 25/30 Bs for the trucha, and 5Bs for empanadas. All snacks and drinks you would buy in the kiosk is a bit more expensive than in the rest of the country.
Activities: the boat to the island costs 25 for the north and 20 for the south. On the way back they try to charge you more because they know you're blocked on the island. But you can easily negotiate 20bs from the south and 25 from the north instead of 25 and 30 respectively. On the island you will have to pay walking tolls on the path from the north to the south. About 3 tolls exist and they can ask between 10 to 20 Bs per person.
Travellers' tips:
- Schedule of boats: only two boats leave per day, 08.30 and 10.30. Is takes about 1h30 to head to the south of the island and 2h30 for the north.
- If you plan to cross over to Peru afterwards I would recommend buying bus tickets from puno to elsewhere directly in Puno, it will be cheaper (I.e. 30-40 soles to cusco or Arequipa). Same for the tour of the Uros floating island (20-25 soles). A bus from Copacabana to puno costs around 30Bs