It's Monday March 20th, my birthday. After an extended week in Cochabamba with all our friends it was time for us to leave and decided to head to La Paz and Rurrenabaque. Is there a better way than to celebrate my 25th birthday in the jungle?
Our flight left at 17:15 and landed at 18:00. A short flight in a tiny plane (19 seats, no hostess and two captains). I was a bit nervous to fly in such an aircraft, especially as you can feel any air hole or problem the plane would have. Yet the flight went perfectly and gave us a magnificent view of the immensity of La Paz, the beauty of the Andes and the impressive vast Amazon! Landing in the smallest airport I've ever been in (a House in the middle of a jungle) we head for our hostel to celebrate my birthday and enjoy a good night rest before heading to our tour.
On our first day we leave town around 9 in the morning and head by car to Santa Rosa's deck where pirogues are awaiting us to start our Pampa adventure. Almost 3 hours of route through la pampa (jungle countryside) where tolls are hand made from a cord (which they loosen by the flick of a hand, they are lazy!), road workers take care of traffic with a wooden stick and a red or green flag on its tip, herds of skinny cows block the route, Caïmans hang around by the side of the route, sloth take their time to walk the branch, many types of birds and strange ones meet your way, and where the jungle-like landscape gives you an unprecedented feeling of freedom and greatness of discovering another wonder of the world. Without forgetting the local lunch in a small village making you realise how a simple life one can handle.
Once at the deck the tour starts. We hop in our pirogue (private for us as nobody else booked the tour!) and leave for an approximate 2:30 tour until the hostel. Our knowledgeable guide, Antonio a native from the jungle, starts to explain the history of this jungle, what it contains and the specificities of each animal we see.
The Amazon jungle was formed about 35 million of years ago from earth's tectonics’ quake disturbing the ecosystem then and being the reason why salt water specifies found themselves moved to this new environment such as the dolphins and ray mantas. The diversity and density of trees are due to the humidity of the area. Rainy season lasts from January to April and the forest always has water in it. When it rains, it is very strong and it's usually impossible to navigate as vision is blocked by the rain's fog. The dry season (high touristic season from April to December) can start suddenly, as the water evaporation process is very quick, it can be from 50cm in one night to several meters in one night!! Within this part of the jungle many specifies can be seen, such as: turtles, Caïmans (there are 4 types of caimans in the Amazon but only two here; and can measure up to 6m even though there was born as short as 50cm! Babies are born out of eggs, they can feed off anything and their skin is very strong. Digestion can take up to 3 months for them and they are more active at night to find their preys. Respecting the kingdom's rules they will never live in presence of the oink dolphins. Only the side in the crocodile's belly skin is used for merchandising), piranha, fishes, catfishes, rays manga, dolphins, and many types of birds (150 in this region only). In the Selva tour one can see deer, wild pigs, jaguar, Toucans and much more different type of animals.
Our flight left at 17:15 and landed at 18:00. A short flight in a tiny plane (19 seats, no hostess and two captains). I was a bit nervous to fly in such an aircraft, especially as you can feel any air hole or problem the plane would have. Yet the flight went perfectly and gave us a magnificent view of the immensity of La Paz, the beauty of the Andes and the impressive vast Amazon! Landing in the smallest airport I've ever been in (a House in the middle of a jungle) we head for our hostel to celebrate my birthday and enjoy a good night rest before heading to our tour.
On our first day we leave town around 9 in the morning and head by car to Santa Rosa's deck where pirogues are awaiting us to start our Pampa adventure. Almost 3 hours of route through la pampa (jungle countryside) where tolls are hand made from a cord (which they loosen by the flick of a hand, they are lazy!), road workers take care of traffic with a wooden stick and a red or green flag on its tip, herds of skinny cows block the route, Caïmans hang around by the side of the route, sloth take their time to walk the branch, many types of birds and strange ones meet your way, and where the jungle-like landscape gives you an unprecedented feeling of freedom and greatness of discovering another wonder of the world. Without forgetting the local lunch in a small village making you realise how a simple life one can handle.
Once at the deck the tour starts. We hop in our pirogue (private for us as nobody else booked the tour!) and leave for an approximate 2:30 tour until the hostel. Our knowledgeable guide, Antonio a native from the jungle, starts to explain the history of this jungle, what it contains and the specificities of each animal we see.
The Amazon jungle was formed about 35 million of years ago from earth's tectonics’ quake disturbing the ecosystem then and being the reason why salt water specifies found themselves moved to this new environment such as the dolphins and ray mantas. The diversity and density of trees are due to the humidity of the area. Rainy season lasts from January to April and the forest always has water in it. When it rains, it is very strong and it's usually impossible to navigate as vision is blocked by the rain's fog. The dry season (high touristic season from April to December) can start suddenly, as the water evaporation process is very quick, it can be from 50cm in one night to several meters in one night!! Within this part of the jungle many specifies can be seen, such as: turtles, Caïmans (there are 4 types of caimans in the Amazon but only two here; and can measure up to 6m even though there was born as short as 50cm! Babies are born out of eggs, they can feed off anything and their skin is very strong. Digestion can take up to 3 months for them and they are more active at night to find their preys. Respecting the kingdom's rules they will never live in presence of the oink dolphins. Only the side in the crocodile's belly skin is used for merchandising), piranha, fishes, catfishes, rays manga, dolphins, and many types of birds (150 in this region only). In the Selva tour one can see deer, wild pigs, jaguar, Toucans and much more different type of animals.
Day 1
The river we are on is the Rio Yacuma and currently has a depth of 4-5m due to all the heavy rain. On our route we meet many types of birds especially the Serere a semi-pre-historic bird whose characteristics haven't changed since; turtles, Caïmans, dolphin (there exists two different types of dolphins in the amazon, this one, pink due to what it eats, usually swims in pairs and used to be a salt water dolphin; it took him many years to adapt to its new environment), and four different types of monkeys. Without forgetting of course, the non-stop attack of mosquitos!! Despite the rain and fresh wind this first tour of the jungle leaves us excited about all the other activities that await us!
Around 4.30 we arrive at our hostel, a lovely hostel on stilt, all made of wood, with hammocks, views over the jungle and quietness, just the simple pleasure of hearing the pure sound of nature! We were excited to stay two nights in such a relaxing and charming environment. The cook stays there 10 days every 10 days, can you imagine how destressing and invigorating that must be?? After an afternoon tea and a quick rest, off we go to enjoy the sunset at a deck 10mins from the hostel. We were lucky that the weather got a bit better letting us see a portion of how magnificent a sunset must be here! On our way back for diner we looked out for caimans (at night they are easily spottable as their eyes reflect in orange to flashlight). This moment was precious as Antonio turned off the boat's motor and let us drift enjoying in the dark the beauty of the stars in the sky, the lights of the firefly and the calmness of the nature. All of that while telling us interesting facts about the jungle and its species! Back at the hostel we are welcomed with a delicious dinner with a local speciality: Charque cha a local dish made from dried red meat, bananas and condiments. We can’t say we were badly fed during this tour, every meal was at least for four people, while we were only 2-3 eating, and including salad, meat, potatoes, rice and pasta! A little rest on the hammock, and last look out for caimans (I saw a baby one - it surprised me to see how small they are when you know how big a predator they become) and star gazing and off the go at 9.15 to bed (electricity turns off at 9.00) to enjoy a peaceful night of sleep cradled by the sound of the nature and its animals. |
Day 2
After a heavy night of rain and weird noises we kick start our second day with a fulfilling breakfast (fruits, pancakes, cuñapes (a local bread-type with cheese, so delicious!) and fresh orange juice) before heading to lookout for anacondas. A 10-15 min pirogue ride from the accommodation we arrive at an estancia where we start a 2:30 walk around the swamp pampa looking for anacondas, fake cobras and boas. However due to the high rainy season it was impossible to see them: indeed these snake are aquatic snake and spread around very easily in so much water (it is easier to see then in low dry season as they all concentrate to where the few water is). Being very sensitive to noise they run away as soon as they hear us. Moreover the presence of tourists and their Mosquitos repellent deteriorate their natural habitat and therefore less and less anacondas are seen. Anacondas are not venomous and thus not dangerous for us in such an activity. Yet beyond 5m of length they are considered dangerous for human beings as they can eat you as whole after having choked you... despite not liking this species it is fascinating to hear how they grow from 20cm up to 11m, how they feed and can spend up to 6 months digestion a prey, how they often change of skin and how along with the caiman they are on top of the feeding chain, as nobody is more predatory than them. Despite the cloudy sky this walk turns out to be heavy temperature wise.
After our morning activity we head back to have lunch and a nap on the hammock, love my life! After a little rain the weather brightens up treating us with a splendid landscape while we go fishing for piranhas; only three types live in this area, the yellow, white and red ones. The latter being the most dangerous ones as they can grow up to 20cm and 1kg. Their teeth are very sharp and can easily tear you apart. A landscape I am not reading to forget: a perfect blinding of blue of the sky, different type of greens from the nature, the darkness of the water offering perfect reflections of the landscape, and beautiful formations of clouds offering a beautiful perspective of Mother Nature. The cherry on the cake being the couple of dolphins swimming around us. We head back home to enjoy the sunset at the hostel’s viewpoint before diner. Our last delicious dinner in which we were of course offered too much to eat (rice, pasta, fries, meat, vegetables and the piranha we fished) topped by wine and a cake as it is our last meal. Although the stars are shy tonight, caimans are still up for a little eye sparkling show in the dark. 9:00 electricity turns off. We take advantage to get a good night rest before waking up early to hopefully see the sunrise should the weather be with us. |
Day3
And it was! Our guide woke us up saying it was cloudy and we could try. We did and thank god we did as it was worth it! Way less cloudy than I expected, we enjoyed the sunrise from our pirogue. Admiring the nature waking up is something precious: quiet, an explosion of light and colours with the sunrise, fresh air and a variety of singing birds and weird noises. A perfect way to wake up!
After another fulfilling breakie we leave for our last activity: swimming with the dolphins. An enjoyable 30min ride to go and look for them. We find them in a beautiful place surrounded by flourished vegetation! These dolphins do not jump like salt-water ones and are therefore harder to see. We usually hear them exhale before spotting them. Once reassured that no caimans neither piranha can be at the same place we enter the warm water, despite the fact that we are about to swim in a dark water full of dirt, wood decomposition and animals' excrement...! We spot them and swim slowly towards them only to see they moved elsewhere; we keep playing like that for a while until they all surround us (3 dolphins were present): we know it they are going to start playing with us. Well more with Steph than me, I didn't get the chance to approached them from close to even touch them yet Steph touched them and they played with her several times biting her nicely on the foot. Then other tourists came and it got more difficult to keep them in one place. We kept swimming after them for a good 1:30 before we had to head back for a shower (the water was so dirty that my white swimming suit turned out beige/reddish...) and lunch before heading back to Rurrenabaque concluding our tour. A last ride within the jungle under a strong sun (first sun burnt of the tour) and suddenly strong tropical rain, we were soaked by the time we reached the deck! All in all during our tour we saw four different types of monkeys (Capucinos, Auguilador negro y Rojo, Ardilla – the small brown ones), Caïmans, pink dolphins, about 20+ types of birds, turtles, the bigger rodent (called capiwara) in the world, sloth and piranhas. Our three days in la pampa went by very quickly but it is one of these experiences you will never forget, and a moment of connection with the nature that can only do you some good. |
Transport: we took a round trip 40 min flight from La Paz to Rurrenabaque for 1’328 BS (175€); yet with more anticipation cheaper rates can be found with this airline, Amazonas. Another airline called TAM airlines has cheaper flights twice a week (Wednesdays and Fridays). Another option is the bus: 15-18 hours from La Paz for 70Bs (10€). This bus takes a portion of the death road, and apparently the rest is a very curvy road through la pampa, that’s why it takes so long for only 41km!
Accommodation: In Rurrenabaque we stayed at the Curichal hostal for 50Bs (7€) per night in a dorm including wifi, swimming pool, a bar, a free drink at a local restaurant and breakfast.
F&B: we had dinner at La Luna for about 50BS (7€) each, a regular restaurant where we waited too long though to be served. For anyone who love fish the Cabaña restaurant by the water seems good and cheap, and another restaurant (not opened on Mondays) offers one of the best fishes around town: cooked within banana leaves. For the greedy ones, give a try at the variety of pastry at the French bakery called Panaderia Paris.
Activity: we booked our tour (via whatsapp on a Sunday one day in advance, I love Bolivia!) with Dolphin tours. Most of the agencies have the same price as a recent ley force them to offer the tour as low as 1’200 BS per person (160€). The price includes everything during the three day tour (food, guide, equipment, transport) and also a transport from and to the airport for an additional fee of 20BS per person. What we loved most about this agency was the quality of our guide, which makes everything!
Accommodation: In Rurrenabaque we stayed at the Curichal hostal for 50Bs (7€) per night in a dorm including wifi, swimming pool, a bar, a free drink at a local restaurant and breakfast.
F&B: we had dinner at La Luna for about 50BS (7€) each, a regular restaurant where we waited too long though to be served. For anyone who love fish the Cabaña restaurant by the water seems good and cheap, and another restaurant (not opened on Mondays) offers one of the best fishes around town: cooked within banana leaves. For the greedy ones, give a try at the variety of pastry at the French bakery called Panaderia Paris.
Activity: we booked our tour (via whatsapp on a Sunday one day in advance, I love Bolivia!) with Dolphin tours. Most of the agencies have the same price as a recent ley force them to offer the tour as low as 1’200 BS per person (160€). The price includes everything during the three day tour (food, guide, equipment, transport) and also a transport from and to the airport for an additional fee of 20BS per person. What we loved most about this agency was the quality of our guide, which makes everything!
Traveller's tips:
- The best season to go is from May to December in order to see every animals, and be less disturbed by mosquitos. At this season the water level is up to 1m offering a different experience than ours. Yet prices might be more expensive.
- Two tours exist: the pampa tour (the one we did and explained above) and the selva tour. The latter offers a differentiated jungle experience, as you walk more in the jungle, and see different types of animals. Let say la Pampa is more to enjoy pirogues and spot animals while la Selva, despite seeing animals, is more for flora lovers. Animals over there are usually harder to spot as too high in the trees or too vivid.
Gracias a Stéphanie Vallet para las bellas fotos!