A 9 hour drive from San Pedro de Atacama Iquique is a port city in the north of Chile with around 200 000 inhabitants, initially town developed in the 19th century due to the heyday of the saltpetre mining in Atacama Desert. The Chileans are very proud to put forward that this northern part of Chile belonged to the Peruvians who unfortunately for them lost it as a result of the Pacific War (1879 – 1883).
Today the town remains traditional in its centre with lovely traditional colonial houses, with modern, poorest and less lovely houses on the outside of the city centre. This town is a hub for nautical sports despite the cold of the ocean and for paragliding from the sand dunes to the beach. It is indeed easily doable as the town in narrowly nested right in between the ocean and the mountains. |
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HUMBERSTONE Half an hour outside of Iquique lays the ghost town of Humberstone, a cornerstone of national history. Purposely developed in the 19th century as a saltpetre refinery, this place was as much the working as living place of minors and their families, in confined and tough conditions though for over 60 years. The town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005. Inhabitants were confined in this area as everything was at their disposal onsite and they were paid with a local currency. Find a little bit of history about Saltpetre below. |
Demand for Saltpetre began in 1820 in Europe, for the explosives industry. There was a historical agricultural use by the indigenous communities in Tarapacá, but the rise began in 1830, when scientific studies found positive effects of the sodium nitrate on crops, which sparked off the industry.
Regional development was seen in Iquique, with important economic growth from 1836 onwards thanks to the rise of saltpetre. It was decreed a Major Port, and in 1907 11 steam companies and 2 railway companies were working at the port.
Social investment – more than 60% of taxes recovered by the State between 1880-1925 came from saltpetre. It was the base for transformations that shaped the country in the 20th century: educational coverage increased from 20’000 students in 1890 to 396’000 students in 1920, and the railway lines extended from 1.100kms in 1890 to 5.000kms in 1913.
The shanks system - it was the most successful and most used productive model. The works or company towns were constructed under its model. It was responsible for the highest prices reached, largest volumes exported and most important tax revenues collected.
The First World War brought dire consequences for the production of Chilean saltpetre. Seeing that the battle fronts were in the oceans and commercial routes, exportations dropped. The industry maintained itself in expansion until the 1920’s, with a few posterior upturns.
The creation of Synthetic Saltpetre in Germany marked the decadence of Chilean nitrate. N 1920 65% of the production of saltpetre in the word was Chilean, in 1930 this dropped to 10%, and in the 50’s Chilean production represented a mere 3%.
State Intervention - in 1930 entrepreneurs and the State created a mixed entity to take charge of saltpetre sales, COSACH. Low sales resulted in the creation of a new society, COVENSA, the sole buyer and seller of saltpetre. It also administered advertising efforts.
The Guggenheim System tried to generate competition in the world market the cold leaching process was able to increase output, take advantage of lower quality caliche and lower production costs. It was only implemented in two works.
Regional development was seen in Iquique, with important economic growth from 1836 onwards thanks to the rise of saltpetre. It was decreed a Major Port, and in 1907 11 steam companies and 2 railway companies were working at the port.
Social investment – more than 60% of taxes recovered by the State between 1880-1925 came from saltpetre. It was the base for transformations that shaped the country in the 20th century: educational coverage increased from 20’000 students in 1890 to 396’000 students in 1920, and the railway lines extended from 1.100kms in 1890 to 5.000kms in 1913.
The shanks system - it was the most successful and most used productive model. The works or company towns were constructed under its model. It was responsible for the highest prices reached, largest volumes exported and most important tax revenues collected.
The First World War brought dire consequences for the production of Chilean saltpetre. Seeing that the battle fronts were in the oceans and commercial routes, exportations dropped. The industry maintained itself in expansion until the 1920’s, with a few posterior upturns.
The creation of Synthetic Saltpetre in Germany marked the decadence of Chilean nitrate. N 1920 65% of the production of saltpetre in the word was Chilean, in 1930 this dropped to 10%, and in the 50’s Chilean production represented a mere 3%.
State Intervention - in 1930 entrepreneurs and the State created a mixed entity to take charge of saltpetre sales, COSACH. Low sales resulted in the creation of a new society, COVENSA, the sole buyer and seller of saltpetre. It also administered advertising efforts.
The Guggenheim System tried to generate competition in the world market the cold leaching process was able to increase output, take advantage of lower quality caliche and lower production costs. It was only implemented in two works.
Transportation: hitchhiked from San Pedro to Calama, and then a night bus of 7 hours at CLP18600 (26.5€) – CLP2000 (3€) de Iquique to Humberstone, one way.
Accommodation: nicely hosted by a friend’s family
F&B: Around CLP5000-10000 per dish depending on your tastes.
Accommodation: nicely hosted by a friend’s family
F&B: Around CLP5000-10000 per dish depending on your tastes.