The past couple of days we enjoyed one of the best national park we've seen so far. After a couple of nights in Puerto Natales where we took time to rest and prepare the expedition, we left for Torres del Paine, about 120km north from the city, the main one to reach the national park.
Torres del Paine was a bomb for the eye! Although expensive it's sceneries are well worth it: a mixture of mountains, yellow and green valley, and many lakes of different colours (from turquoise to dark blue). Sometimes, a similarity with Scotland when the weather is bad, windy and stormy. A place like no other when the weather is perfect and the colours pure. A magnificent playground for its fauna (ostriches, guanacos, rabbits, birds, cows and horses). From one point to the other of the park the view never ceases to impress you. There's always something to see or be impressed by. We never stopped being amazed by everything we saw! |
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D1 - Mirador de la Torres
We started to visit the park by hiking to the Mirador Las Torres, the most famous viewpoint of the park, and the first part of the W hike. 10km and 4h hike one way and we're finally there after a thought hike: the weather was very windy, about 60-70km/h making it hard to enjoy the walk and sometimes making it for us to keep walking straight. At some point of the hike the trail is very narrow and on the edge of a ravine. I think it was the first time I got really scared for my life as the strength of the wind could have taken away anyone in their ravine. We were shocked to see that despite the cost of the park and the fact that this trail is one of the most used, the NP doesn't invest in much safety for the travellers than warning signs saying the path is dangerous and slippery. In addition to that the strong wind made that the weather changed very quickly and by the time we reached the last km (which is a hard and unpleasant one as it is a 30% climb within rocks and slippery ground) the sky was clouded over the viewpoint. Fortunately we got to the see the towers and the mountain but it would of course have been better with a blue sky and sun (especially to counterbalance the cold wind!!)
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D2 - Visiting the park
The rest of the park is magnificent and was much more enjoyable for me than the hike. It is not to be missed!
Being 4 people (and seeing how expensive and unpractical to visit the park the bus schedule is) we decided to rent a car to visit the park as we pleased. We camped within the national park, an interesting experience with a very strong wind all night but a moment that participated to creating the overall great experience we had; especially when waking up to a clear blue sky and a beautiful weather of the majesty of the nature. The car enabled us to visit many viewpoints on the road, to go and see the view over a lake and the French valley and to go all the way to the viewpoint of the Grey Glacier from an island on a beach with icebergs. All in all we can see that Patagonia is a sequel of landscapes treating the eye, and it's something to be seen to understand the experience |
Transport: we arrived in Puerto Natales by bus from El Calafate, Argentina. Few buses leave per day around 8.00-8.30 (sometimes additional buses are added at 16.30 on specific days) and the trip costed us ARS 500 (30€) and lasted a good 6 hours (including the time at the boarder)
Accommodation: a block from the bus station of Puerto Natales we found such a pleasant brand new hostel, passionately held by Samuel and his family. An authentic encounter that moved us a lot! For CLP 10'000 (15€) per night we were hosted by one of the most comfortable beds we've has so far, with the use of the kitchen, wifi and hot shower. For those who don't have a car to go and visit Torres Del Paine this option is perfect due to its proximity with the bus station!
In the NP we camped at Pehoe camping where we paid CLP 22'000 (33€) per person, a price including the use of the camping site with toilets, showers and a shelter for the tents (10'000 per person), and the renting of the material needed (6'000 per person for a double tent and 6'000 per person for a sleeping bag). Contact: [email protected] / 2-19620377 / 2-19620387
F&B: we ate a really good burger and beer at the corner of Esmerald and Eleuterio Ramirez for CLP 6'500 (10€) per person for the burger, about CLP 3'500 (4.5€) for the beer. The rest was as usual a simple but cheap dinner at the hostel, and sandwiches for our expeditions in the national park. Overall expenditure: about CLP 25'000 (36€).
Activities: the car rental costed us CLP 55'000 (80€) per day including two drivers, insurance and il limited miles; and the gas 26€ for half a tank. The entrance of the national park costs CLP 21'000 (30€) per person for foreigners in the peak season. For anyone who needs to tend hiking or camping marital many shops offer this options in Puerto Natales. I rented waking sticks on Bernardo O'Higgins and Baquedano (next to the Hertz office) for CLP 3'500 (5€) per day.
Accommodation: a block from the bus station of Puerto Natales we found such a pleasant brand new hostel, passionately held by Samuel and his family. An authentic encounter that moved us a lot! For CLP 10'000 (15€) per night we were hosted by one of the most comfortable beds we've has so far, with the use of the kitchen, wifi and hot shower. For those who don't have a car to go and visit Torres Del Paine this option is perfect due to its proximity with the bus station!
In the NP we camped at Pehoe camping where we paid CLP 22'000 (33€) per person, a price including the use of the camping site with toilets, showers and a shelter for the tents (10'000 per person), and the renting of the material needed (6'000 per person for a double tent and 6'000 per person for a sleeping bag). Contact: [email protected] / 2-19620377 / 2-19620387
F&B: we ate a really good burger and beer at the corner of Esmerald and Eleuterio Ramirez for CLP 6'500 (10€) per person for the burger, about CLP 3'500 (4.5€) for the beer. The rest was as usual a simple but cheap dinner at the hostel, and sandwiches for our expeditions in the national park. Overall expenditure: about CLP 25'000 (36€).
Activities: the car rental costed us CLP 55'000 (80€) per day including two drivers, insurance and il limited miles; and the gas 26€ for half a tank. The entrance of the national park costs CLP 21'000 (30€) per person for foreigners in the peak season. For anyone who needs to tend hiking or camping marital many shops offer this options in Puerto Natales. I rented waking sticks on Bernardo O'Higgins and Baquedano (next to the Hertz office) for CLP 3'500 (5€) per day.