Potosí, the highest city in the world at 4’070m protected by the UNESCO as a world heritage site, is town living off mine exploitation. On April 1st 1545 started in Potosí the exploitation of silver in Cerro Rico, then the richest and biggest mineral retainer. Of volcanic origin this mountain – then named beautiful mountain in Quechua, is considered the highest in the region with an altitude of 4’782m and holds about 5’000 entrances into the mines.
Potosí was very populated during the colonisation due to the richness of the soil (whereas today Potosí holds 200.000 inhabitants) – and of course the Spanish wouldn’t miss an opportunity to take advantage of it. The first slaves to be brought to the mines were African and that’s how the first AfroBolivians appeared. Their worked consisted of digging through the mountain in order to find valuable material. The digging process, a long and tiring one, is done by hammering an iron stick in order to create a deep enough hole in the rock. 25 holes need to be made (about 1 week of labour) in order to install explosive as to create a path through the mountain. Working conditions were tough: at the end of the lamentation path (because they were afraid of never seeing their loved ones anymore), the minors were getting into the mines from the top of the mountain, were at more than 4’270 meters the temperature is very cold, down into the mines were temperature could reach up to 35-40°. Such a thermic shock is hard on one’s body. The slaves worked 8 hours per day, 6 months straight without leaving the mines; breathing toxins, suffers and many more. It goes without saying that the average age was very low – about 30-35 years old. 8 million indigenous lost their lives working in the mines.
The mines are rich in various materials: silver, tin, zinc, white quartz, pink quartz, lead pyrite, copper sulphate and more. Potosí is most known for silver extraction and for the creation of coins. Back in time coins were made of pure silver (97% pure silver and 3% iron) and any coin of less than that were considered false. Those in possession of these coins were held before justice for possessing false money.
This is where the expression “Valer un PotosÍ” comes from: back in the colonial period it meant having something that has a lot of value.
In order to survive and work in the mines, the minors bring with them coca leaves (which bring them vitamins, and act as an appetite suppressant), dynamite (as material like clay which today is accessible by anyone even children! – they consider it not harmful as long as it is manipulated without a wick and detonator), pure cigarettes and alcohol pure of 96° (which also is harmful to their health). An interesting thing with dynamite is that they use the length thumb – little finger to determine how much time they have to run away from the dynamite (1 length = 1 min).
The minors (Catholics) believe in God, and in 3 different ones: La Pacha Mamá (who protects them with good nature), el diablo y el Cristo (which they pray to for good health). The indigenous also believe in different Gods: the Sun (which keeps them warm) and the moon (which help them see at night) The most important God for them is El Tío (pictures on the left) which was then seen as the devil of the mines. Once the Spanish (who were then seen as a god by the indigenous because they were all knowledgeable and rich) realised the minors weren’t getting the same amount of production out of the mine (because they were taking advantage of unmonitored worked to have some extra-sleep) the Spanish decided to install at the entrance of the mine a statue of El Tio, the mine devil who will keep an eye on them inside the mines. Back then El Tio was then considered as a bad god, frightening the indigenous, being a bad malediction for them, malediction which will haunt them if they don’t deliver the work as supposed to. Today though, he is considered as a good God, the God of production (hence the large penis). In order to ask for good production and luck in the mines, the minors hold a ritual every Tuesday and Friday where they offer him gifts as so El Tío would give them good luck to find great material in the mines. The gifts consist of Coca leaves, cigarettes and alcohol (hence the tio, enjoying the same things as locals, becomes a good friend). The ceremonial goes as following: spreading around him coca leaves (the green they remain, the better luck), lightening a cigarette and putting it in his mouth (if he smokes the whole cigarette then it’s good luck) and sharing with him this 96° alcohol.
Today, after 471 years of successful mine exploitation in the Cerro Rico, Potosí holds 200.000 inhabitants, 70% of which work in the mines, should they be men, women or children – all of that for only 100-120bs per day (14-16€ per day). Working conditions haven’t changed, yet what makes it harder is that through colonisation, the Spanish exploited all the best resources of the soil; hence what’s left to the locals of Potosí is mostly considered as trashed… Therefore it is a matter of luck of finding a great material! The richest in town and the poorest in town are both minors.
Potosí was very populated during the colonisation due to the richness of the soil (whereas today Potosí holds 200.000 inhabitants) – and of course the Spanish wouldn’t miss an opportunity to take advantage of it. The first slaves to be brought to the mines were African and that’s how the first AfroBolivians appeared. Their worked consisted of digging through the mountain in order to find valuable material. The digging process, a long and tiring one, is done by hammering an iron stick in order to create a deep enough hole in the rock. 25 holes need to be made (about 1 week of labour) in order to install explosive as to create a path through the mountain. Working conditions were tough: at the end of the lamentation path (because they were afraid of never seeing their loved ones anymore), the minors were getting into the mines from the top of the mountain, were at more than 4’270 meters the temperature is very cold, down into the mines were temperature could reach up to 35-40°. Such a thermic shock is hard on one’s body. The slaves worked 8 hours per day, 6 months straight without leaving the mines; breathing toxins, suffers and many more. It goes without saying that the average age was very low – about 30-35 years old. 8 million indigenous lost their lives working in the mines.
The mines are rich in various materials: silver, tin, zinc, white quartz, pink quartz, lead pyrite, copper sulphate and more. Potosí is most known for silver extraction and for the creation of coins. Back in time coins were made of pure silver (97% pure silver and 3% iron) and any coin of less than that were considered false. Those in possession of these coins were held before justice for possessing false money.
This is where the expression “Valer un PotosÍ” comes from: back in the colonial period it meant having something that has a lot of value.
In order to survive and work in the mines, the minors bring with them coca leaves (which bring them vitamins, and act as an appetite suppressant), dynamite (as material like clay which today is accessible by anyone even children! – they consider it not harmful as long as it is manipulated without a wick and detonator), pure cigarettes and alcohol pure of 96° (which also is harmful to their health). An interesting thing with dynamite is that they use the length thumb – little finger to determine how much time they have to run away from the dynamite (1 length = 1 min).
The minors (Catholics) believe in God, and in 3 different ones: La Pacha Mamá (who protects them with good nature), el diablo y el Cristo (which they pray to for good health). The indigenous also believe in different Gods: the Sun (which keeps them warm) and the moon (which help them see at night) The most important God for them is El Tío (pictures on the left) which was then seen as the devil of the mines. Once the Spanish (who were then seen as a god by the indigenous because they were all knowledgeable and rich) realised the minors weren’t getting the same amount of production out of the mine (because they were taking advantage of unmonitored worked to have some extra-sleep) the Spanish decided to install at the entrance of the mine a statue of El Tio, the mine devil who will keep an eye on them inside the mines. Back then El Tio was then considered as a bad god, frightening the indigenous, being a bad malediction for them, malediction which will haunt them if they don’t deliver the work as supposed to. Today though, he is considered as a good God, the God of production (hence the large penis). In order to ask for good production and luck in the mines, the minors hold a ritual every Tuesday and Friday where they offer him gifts as so El Tío would give them good luck to find great material in the mines. The gifts consist of Coca leaves, cigarettes and alcohol (hence the tio, enjoying the same things as locals, becomes a good friend). The ceremonial goes as following: spreading around him coca leaves (the green they remain, the better luck), lightening a cigarette and putting it in his mouth (if he smokes the whole cigarette then it’s good luck) and sharing with him this 96° alcohol.
Today, after 471 years of successful mine exploitation in the Cerro Rico, Potosí holds 200.000 inhabitants, 70% of which work in the mines, should they be men, women or children – all of that for only 100-120bs per day (14-16€ per day). Working conditions haven’t changed, yet what makes it harder is that through colonisation, the Spanish exploited all the best resources of the soil; hence what’s left to the locals of Potosí is mostly considered as trashed… Therefore it is a matter of luck of finding a great material! The richest in town and the poorest in town are both minors.
Transportation: 21Bs from Sucre (3 hour drive)
Accommodation: 52,5Bs per night in a dormitory at Hostel Casona with shared bathroom with wifi, kitchen and including a cheap cheap breakfast. A cute little hostel very close to the main Plaza.
Activities: 80Bs for a mine tour, 40Bs for the Casa de la Moneda
F&B: about 30Bs for a dish minimum
Accommodation: 52,5Bs per night in a dormitory at Hostel Casona with shared bathroom with wifi, kitchen and including a cheap cheap breakfast. A cute little hostel very close to the main Plaza.
Activities: 80Bs for a mine tour, 40Bs for the Casa de la Moneda
F&B: about 30Bs for a dish minimum