La Guajira, another Colombia, is a deserted region lying in between the Caribbean Sea and the Venezuelan boarder, a part of the region also being held by Venezuela. It holds the northern point of South America and impressive landscapes such as sand dunes falling into the ocean. An 600 000 indigenous population called Wayuu has been living there for years and living in scare conditions due to the aridity of the region. No towns, just some precarious houses here and there and extended deserted landscape. Reaching la Guajira is a journey itself, such is wandering around.
The Wayuu is a Muslim population originating from Palestine and supported by the State. The population mainly live off fishing, craft, goats and tourism (offering simple but delicious meals, hammocks by the beach and simple rooms), although it’s still quite marginal over there for now. Yet they take advantage of tourism, by imposing “human” customs where women and children hang up ropes blocking the way, forcing the cars to give them food or drinks to pass by. Community wise, one become Wayuu from his/her mother and holds both the Colombia and Venezuelan nationality as for them there’s only 1 Guarija. They vote to decide on new laws, and each community within the peninsula have their own rules. When marring a Wayuu from another community, the woman has to give up her original community. However in general women have more power than man over the rest of the family. Ok now I’m done with the fun facts!
I decided to visit the peninsula with an agency rather than by myself. The latter is of course an option but with a bit more time than 3 days to account for last minute changes, finding transport, accommodation etc. Some people are still sceptic about doing it by themselves due to the proximity with Venezuela and the reputation of being a dangerous place; yet it is apparently quite safe to visit it independently.
So off we go, from Rioacha with our guide and 5 other tourists. The tour is organised for 3 days with various activities and places to visit.
The Wayuu is a Muslim population originating from Palestine and supported by the State. The population mainly live off fishing, craft, goats and tourism (offering simple but delicious meals, hammocks by the beach and simple rooms), although it’s still quite marginal over there for now. Yet they take advantage of tourism, by imposing “human” customs where women and children hang up ropes blocking the way, forcing the cars to give them food or drinks to pass by. Community wise, one become Wayuu from his/her mother and holds both the Colombia and Venezuelan nationality as for them there’s only 1 Guarija. They vote to decide on new laws, and each community within the peninsula have their own rules. When marring a Wayuu from another community, the woman has to give up her original community. However in general women have more power than man over the rest of the family. Ok now I’m done with the fun facts!
I decided to visit the peninsula with an agency rather than by myself. The latter is of course an option but with a bit more time than 3 days to account for last minute changes, finding transport, accommodation etc. Some people are still sceptic about doing it by themselves due to the proximity with Venezuela and the reputation of being a dangerous place; yet it is apparently quite safe to visit it independently.
So off we go, from Rioacha with our guide and 5 other tourists. The tour is organised for 3 days with various activities and places to visit.
Day 1 - Rioacha - Uribia - Cabo de la Vela
From Rioacha city, the entry point to the peninsula, there’s a good hour drive to Uribia the only village around, and the last opportunity for any type of shopping. Uribia has an appearance of a far west village – a poor but active town; being close to Venezuela we start feeling locals either don’t appreciate the view of tourists, or either get ready to take advantage of their money. As you can guess, being very close to the boarder, the city and region convey plenty of merchandising traffic. One we’ve refuelled on gas, water and snacks off we go! Mountains in the distance, endless tracks, some stretches of grasses, lots of sand, and children riding bikes in a barren but beautiful landscape. The ocean starts to appear along with a series of precarious houses along a sandy track by the seas side forming a charming village. Wayuu dressed in colourful dresses while knitting tradition crafts and bags. Welcome to Cabo de la Vela.
After a delicious first meal in La Guajira the afternoon activities take us to visit other viewpoints of the peninsula, grandiose landscapes made of waves breaking against cliffs, hills to hike to get a higher view, the beauty of a deserted and quite area, colourful sand beaches and sunsets.
Back to Cabo de la Vela. Houses here and there. The ocean waves never far. A grandiose landscape. Little light pollution here, the Milky Way appears before our eyes in all its splendor. Calm and fresh ocean accompanies a peaceful evening around a fresh fish meal. A delight. No network here and even less internet. A sense of being away from it all. Silence, beauty of the site and the surroundings, I imagine you can easily find yourself staying here a few days.
After a delicious first meal in La Guajira the afternoon activities take us to visit other viewpoints of the peninsula, grandiose landscapes made of waves breaking against cliffs, hills to hike to get a higher view, the beauty of a deserted and quite area, colourful sand beaches and sunsets.
Back to Cabo de la Vela. Houses here and there. The ocean waves never far. A grandiose landscape. Little light pollution here, the Milky Way appears before our eyes in all its splendor. Calm and fresh ocean accompanies a peaceful evening around a fresh fish meal. A delight. No network here and even less internet. A sense of being away from it all. Silence, beauty of the site and the surroundings, I imagine you can easily find yourself staying here a few days.
Day 2 - Caboa de la Vela - Punta Gallinas
7am, our guide whistles and slowly shakes our hammocks. I slowly emerge from my sleep, waking up to the beautiful sound of the sea only a few meters away from where we slept: handwoven hammocks by Wayuu hung and sheltered by a thatch roof. One of the most comfortable night I’ve ever had, and especially on this trip!
We sail off quickly after breakfast to keep discovery the peninsula. The landscape remains loyal to its reputation: deserted, endless, but surprisingly also with stretches of grasses and trees in the middle of the desert but also ponds. Barely any animals in sight. We get to visit the dunes of Tarao, majestic sand dunes on the edge of the Caribbean Ocean offering a unique landscape that keeps intriguing me: how can a desert and an ocean cohabitate? Its wide, its windy, waves start to appear on the sand, the ocean stretches to the horizon and the water is at perfect temperature. Definitely a unique experience. Later on we discover our new accommodation for the night, grab lunch and then after a quick nap in the hammocks we’re off to continue our visits. A few other viewpoints over the bay before heading to Punta Gallinas, the northern point of South America! Before heading back for dinner, we stopped on a beach to enjoy our last sunset in La Guajira. Back to the lodge we enjoy observing the Wayuu prepare dinner for us, their techniques are simple but yet so efficient. Another delicious dinner and it’s time to go to bed.
We sail off quickly after breakfast to keep discovery the peninsula. The landscape remains loyal to its reputation: deserted, endless, but surprisingly also with stretches of grasses and trees in the middle of the desert but also ponds. Barely any animals in sight. We get to visit the dunes of Tarao, majestic sand dunes on the edge of the Caribbean Ocean offering a unique landscape that keeps intriguing me: how can a desert and an ocean cohabitate? Its wide, its windy, waves start to appear on the sand, the ocean stretches to the horizon and the water is at perfect temperature. Definitely a unique experience. Later on we discover our new accommodation for the night, grab lunch and then after a quick nap in the hammocks we’re off to continue our visits. A few other viewpoints over the bay before heading to Punta Gallinas, the northern point of South America! Before heading back for dinner, we stopped on a beach to enjoy our last sunset in La Guajira. Back to the lodge we enjoy observing the Wayuu prepare dinner for us, their techniques are simple but yet so efficient. Another delicious dinner and it’s time to go to bed.
Day 3 - Punta Gallinas - Rioacha
5am, this time it’s not a lovely wake-up call from our guide, but an alike long and torturing snoozing that wakes me up. For more than a couple of hours I believe it’s a kid screaming for his dad and I keep wondering why the dad doesn’t just take care of his child. But it apparently turns out to be a parrot enjoying a like chat with his friend….!
A last breakfast, enjoyably shared with the parrots (who finally stopped screaming), and we’re off to a boat ride crossing over a part of the bay to see, from too far away unfortunately, flamencos before joining our guide on the other hand of the bay. Other hours of car in front of us to get back from our starting point. On our way back we pass through the Portete Bahia known as an entry point from Panama, Cuba and Cachaca for all contrabands merchandise.
Driving though our last desert we come across a dozen of military walking back to their camp under hard conditions. With another car of tourist we help them drive back to their camp, a military camp specially set up to fight against contraband.
A last breakfast, enjoyably shared with the parrots (who finally stopped screaming), and we’re off to a boat ride crossing over a part of the bay to see, from too far away unfortunately, flamencos before joining our guide on the other hand of the bay. Other hours of car in front of us to get back from our starting point. On our way back we pass through the Portete Bahia known as an entry point from Panama, Cuba and Cachaca for all contrabands merchandise.
Driving though our last desert we come across a dozen of military walking back to their camp under hard conditions. With another car of tourist we help them drive back to their camp, a military camp specially set up to fight against contraband.
I underwent this tour with "Alta Guajira Tour" whose office is set in Rioacha. Personally I believe the tour was way too expensive for what it was (as you only pay the driver/guide + accommodation in a hammock + meals made of rice, potatoes and fish (not imported of course!) and that the quality of our guide was low. I was not very happy with that. Also due to all the forced customs Wayuu set up to get food and drinks (of course not included in the price of the tour) it kind of diminished a bit the experience, feeling as bait sometimes.
460 000 CLP (155€)
460 000 CLP (155€)